I do keep in stock a small selection of amplifier vacuum tubes in local stock from all the major makers today. I can also special order most any tubes that are available. I can get Sovtek, Svetlana, JJ, electro-harmonix, Tung-Sol, Mullard, Tube Amp Doctor, and others. I've also got a selection of capacitors and other amp parts. I don't offer amp repairs at this time, just the parts. I get my tubes and amp parts from CE Distribution, Mojotone and also from Allparts. |
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I make my own fast curing fingerboard oil. For a long time I used the classical methods that most good guitar techs use for treating fretboards. I first cleaned the fretboard with naptha and if the grime was built up bad enough, used a razor blade followed by 0000 steel wool to prepare the fretboard, then cleaned it again with lemon oil, or mineral oil. Last I sealed it with the traditional finish of boiled linseed oil. The linseed oil takes at least six or seven hours to dry, often overnight. This method works well and makes an attractive, very silky smooth feeling surface that is sealed and protected. It can’t harm your guitar’s fretboard, binding, or finish. But it takes a lot of time. Then I got the idea to combine some of the steps by making my own fingerboard oil treatment. I use the same time proven ingredients listed in the procedures above to make Walton’s Fast Curing Fingerboard Oil. I add small amounts of a couple of other ingredients to aid in cleaning and speed curing time. These ingredients are also safe for your guitar and are just some of the active ingredients in other well-known products that have been used by many guitar techs and luthiers for cleaning and protecting fretboards. After some experimenting I came up with the current formula that works fast and gives similar results to the traditional method but cures much faster. Five to ten minutes after using this treatment according to directions, the guitar will be ready to play. That’s about the time it takes to get the strings back on it and tune it. It won’t be tacky or sticky. Just silky smooth. I won’t tell all the ingredients, but the main ones (well over 90% of the total) are pure boiled linseed oil, Johnson’s Baby Oil, and Weiman Natural Lemon Oil Furniture Polish (it’s the only one with a UV inhibitor). About 60% of the total is boiled linseed oil, and about 33% is mineral oil of various types. No silicones or other damaging ingredients are included. I double boil and filter part of the linseed oil again to speed up the cure time. One 4 ounce bottle should be enough to last most people a lifetime. The formula doesn’t include naptha, so you need to do that step separately and provide your own supply. |
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MSDS - Walton's Fast Curing Fingerboard Oil |
DR Strings We now carry the DR line of strings. These are very high quality strings, handmade in the USA of all American Materials. DR strings is one of the few, if not the only string company that still hand winds their guitar strings on a lathe in the original and traditional manner. This method is slower and more expensive than machine controlled winding but it gives a trained string winder more accurate control of minute differences in the consistency of the materials. DR strings was founded in 1989 by Mark Dronge, the son of Al Dronge, the founder of Guild Guitars. The company is now in the 4th generation of guitar or guitar string making |
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Generic Strings Doing setups and repairs I go through a lot of strings. I buy them in bulk to keep plenty on hand and to save cost. These are good high quality nickel wound strings, and you'd probably recognize the makers. I seal them up to keep them fresh, but I like to keep the inventory moving just to make sure they stay that way. So I just package up some of the extras and make them available to you at a price that's hard to beat. That helps me and saves you money. |
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String Winder
If you change strings often, you will appreciate a good peg winder. This is the best there is. Developed by renowned guitar technician to SRV, Rene' Martinez. This one fits keys of accoustic, electric or bass guitars and the handle can be removed for use with an electric drill or driver. It is lightweight and compact yet heavier duty than common pegwinders. The compact head does not have the irritating problem of hitting adjacent keys on 6 in line electrics if they aren't lined up just so. It also can be used to remove bridge pins on accoustics. Rene' Martinez String Winder |